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Posts Tagged ‘travel’

Minuteman National Historical Park, Lexington & Concord, Massachusetts

I was eleven years old for America’s bicentennial in 1976. That’s an incredibly impressionable age, and the festivities left a significant mark on me that lasted my whole life. I remember the Tall Ship parades in New York and Boston harbors; the bicentennial parade in Washington; and the general feeling of pride and patriotism across the nation. A field trip took us to see “1776” in our local cinema, and being good Massachusetts boys & girls, we applauded when William Daniels as John Adams rose to sign the Declaration during the final, climactic moment. I even lobbied to rename our candlepin bowling team to “Minutemen”, although I was heavily outvoted (being the worst bowler in the entire league didn’t give me any cred).

The Battle of Lexington and Concord reached mythic levels in my home state, the “shot heard ‘round the world” even hit Schoolhouse Rock. For natives, it’s second only to the Battle of Bunker Hill, which is actually the Battle of Breed’s Hill (if anyone from Massachusetts fails to correct this in conversation, they might be an extraterrestrial). What they might not correct, for many still misunderstand, is who the famed Minutemen actually were.

Ancient Massachusetts

The great misconception is the Minutemen were a ragtag bunch of citizen soldiers. That does them a great injustice. First of all, many of these men were veterans of the French & Indian War (aka the Seven Years’ War in European parlance). They knew how to fight, knew how to respond quickly to tense situations, and (being on the receiving end many a time), understood guerrilla tactics. They continually trained in their home towns, keeping their muskets ever at the ready. They were also readying for conflict with the British regulars, having established many caches of weapons and ammo throughout New England. Meanwhile, the British Regulars (the “Redcoats”) weren’t as seasoned. The European theater of the Seven Year’s War took a significant toll on the British army, most Regulars serving in North America were new recruits, or even victims of impressment. They had little, if any, personal commitment to the causes of Britain, especially regarding a foreign land across an ocean. The Minutemen, however, knew the stakes.

The Colonials weren’t just sparring over Stamp Acts and Intolerable Acts and tea parties, there was another existential threat hovering out there, driving them towards rebellion. Another British colony, fully subjugated, treated it’s citizenry as no better than serfs. No property rights, the results of their labor exported to the mother country, and beset with near-famine conditions that took nearly 400,000 lives in the 18th century. Ben Franklin learned of the conditions in Ireland, and made it his mission to inform everyone in the Colonies of those travesties.

Doolittle Engraving Plate III: The Engagement at the North Bridge in Concord (1775, New York Public Library Digital Collections)

Franklin’s missives did not sit well in Massachusetts: with its shipbuilding and mercantile industries, it was the wealthiest colony per capita. Most of the population were property owners, owning the land on which they farmed, and keeping or selling the fruit of their labors as they saw fit. These Minutemen, therefore, had everything to lose if King George had his way. It’s no surprise that when the word spread to the surrounding towns and farms that the Redcoats were on the move, 4,000 Minutemen showed up to defend the town of Concord. Thousands more were on their way, from the western counties as well as neighboring Connecticut and Rhode Island. New Englanders were dead serious about defending their rights, that’s for damned sure.

With stories like that, it’s no surprise this Massachusetts boy would grow up with a strong sense of patriotism. I’ve held onto the presumed American ideals as best as anyone can into adulthood. The principles of liberty, freedom, equality, perseverance, and the continual effort to make things better for all have been more important in my life than anything I picked up in parochial school. I have to admit, though, the events of the past ten years are straining these principles, and draining that sense of patriotism.

Lexington Monument

It’s been said that a country is only as good as its people, and in a democracy, that’s doubly, or even trebly, so. We can complain about the process, or the back-room dealings limiting our choices, or the oligarchs using their financial abundance to hold their thumb on the scale, but in the end, we still have choices, quite likely the most choice any people has ever had in determining their country’s direction in all of human history. Yet what did we do with this power of choice? Elect a twice-impeached, four-times-indicted former president; whose first term was the most corrupt administration of the modern era; who inspired a riot in Washington, D.C., where his followers attacked police officers with flagpoles and smeared their shit on the walls of the Capital.

The Minutemen marshaled to fight for their freedom and keep their families out of serfdom. Two hundred and fifty years later, MAGA fights for the “right” to strip jobs from minorities under an “anti-woke” agenda; to strip the right to control their own person from millions of women; and for masked men to beat up immigrants and shoot protestors dead in the streets. Oh the difference a couple of centuries makes ….

The Struggle at Concord Bridge (copy of engraving by W.J. Edwards after Alonzo Chappel, circa 1859. National Archives.)

Recently, I’ve felt some of my patriotism returning. I’ve been reminded the last election was won by a plurality of votes, not a majority, that provides a wee bit of comfort. Current presidential approval ratings are in the toilet, the worst of any president at this stage of their presidency since modern polling began. This is mostly because of the economy, of course, and not any of those high-fallutin’ concepts of “liberty”, but I’ll take it as a win. Cracks are certainly showing in the MAGA coalition, with some senators even showing some backbone by pushing back on the $1.8B MAGA slush fund. Maybe these are signs Congress might return to doing their fundamental check-and-balance duties.

I guess there’s some hope out there. Slim, I suppose, but better than none. I’ll take it.

[Sadly, I did not have a digital camera when I visited Minute Man National Historical Park. Pictures posted are not mine]

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Links:

Minute Man National Historical Park: https://www.nps.gov/mima/index.htm

1976 Boston Parade of Sail: https://youtu.be/1opx0W_PbBQ

“Sit Down, John!”: https://youtu.be/dYDxyIzPe98

Bliain an Áir, the Irish Famine of 1740-41: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irish_Famine_(1740%E2%80%931741)

Lexington and Concord: The Battle Heard Round the World, George C. Daughan, 2018: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VX9CP1

The Exotic Mysteries of Candlepin Bowling: https://www.thesportofbowling.com/blog/candlepin-bowling/

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Community College English 101

The Longfellow House in Cambridge is a beautiful, historic house. Built in 1759 in the Georgian style, it was originally occupied by Jamaican plantation owner John Vassall. A staunch loyalist, Vassall saw the writing on the wall and fled to England, just in time for George Washington to use it as headquarters during the early years of the Revolution. After the war, the house was purchased by Washington’s apothecary general, Andrew Craigie. His financial acumen was less than stellar, forcing his widow Elizabeth to take in boarders in 1819, including the soon-to-be-renowned poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. Later, Longfellow received the home as a wedding gift, and it stayed in the family or their trust until the entire building, its furnishings, and the grounds were donated to the National Park Service.

National Park Service photo

That’s all nice, but when I hear “Longfellow House”, I am reminded of my goofy college days.

My family was never particularly well-off. I was a sharp student, but we didn’t have the means to send me to college. So I took what I earned from part-time jobs and went to community college.

Springfield Tech was a good school with a solid electronics program. I already knew Ohm’s Law, Coulomb’s Law, and a variety of formulas and principles, so I had a bit of a head start. I loved those classes, the labs, mathematics, even physics (although it was taught by a professor I’m certain died three years prior).

Then came the dreaded mandatories. First day of first semester, when I had barely any understanding of what to expect, began English 101. I have long forgotten the name of the professor, but I’ll never forget his entrance. Tweed jacket and vest. Dignified salt & pepper beard. And a beret. Yes, a goddamned beret.

I don’t remember all of Professor Beret’s lessons, the one that sticks in my mind is our foray into Robert Frost. I’m talking about that old standby, which most kids learn in high school, “Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening”. The discussion came down to the old, self-wankery standby: “what does this poem mean to you?”

Me, being a bit overeager to discuss such heady topics in the presence of adults, instead of with a class full of hormonal teenagers, piped up with “well, a guy is evaluating his life choices. Shall he return to the life he knows, in comfort, or should he take another path, to see if he can become something special.”

“Um, no,” said Prof. Beret. “It’s about suicide.”

What? Well, apparently, if you decide to take that lesser-traveled path, you want to die by freezing to death …

Holy leaping Christ, what the fuck?

Anyway, that lesson tarnished me on poetry forever. I realized that not only do I not easily pick up on symbolism, but people who put poetry up on philosophical pedestals are fucking crazy.

Brittanica.com

In preparation for this essay, I read many poems from Longfellow: The Complete Poetical Works. Most of his works are direct homages to nature and the art of living. There’s not a lot of deep symbolism, just well-structured odes, definitely tame by today’s standards. There’s no doubt he was big for his time, but now it’s all quaint recollections of seeing a shooting star and such.

I’ll leave you with one of my favorites:

The Burial of the Minnisink

On sunny slope and beechen swell,
The shadowed light of evening fell;
And, where the maple’s leaf was brown,
With soft and silent lapse came down,
The glory, that the wood receives,
At sunset, in its golden leaves. 

Far upward in the mellow light
Rose the blue hills.  One cloud of white,
Around a far uplifted cone,
In the warm blush of evening shone;
An image of the silver lakes,
By which the Indian’s soul awakes. 

But soon a funeral hymn was heard
Where the soft breath of evening stirred
The tall, gray forest; and a band
Of stern in heart, and strong in hand,
Came winding down beside the wave,
To lay the red chief in his grave. 

They sang, that by his native bowers
He stood, in the last moon of flowers,
And thirty snows had not yet shed
Their glory on the warrior’s head;
But, as the summer fruit decays,
So died he in those naked days. 

A dark cloak of the roebuck’s skin
Covered the warrior, and within
Its heavy folds the weapons, made
For the hard toils of war, were laid;
The cuirass, woven of plaited reeds,
And the broad belt of shells and beads. 

Before, a dark-haired virgin train
Chanted the death dirge of the slain;
Behind, the long procession came
Of hoary men and chiefs of fame,
With heavy hearts, and eyes of grief,
Leading the war-horse of their chief. 

Stripped of his proud and martial dress,
Uncurbed, unreined, and riderless,
With darting eye, and nostril spread,
And heavy and impatient tread,
He came; and oft that eye so proud
Asked for his rider in the crowd. 

They buried the dark chief; they freed
Beside the grave his battle steed;
And swift an arrow cleaved its way
To his stern heart!  One piercing neigh
Arose, and, on the dead man’s plain,
The rider grasps his steed again. 

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Despite my difficulties with a certain English 101 professor, I did get a great education at that school.

Links:

Longfellow House National Historic Site

George Washington’s Revolutionary War Itinerary

Searchable database of Longfellow poems

Map to the Longfellow house

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Terror on the Backroads!

It was late spring in the mid-90’s. The world had not yet discovered the convenience of smartphones, nor had the general public made avail of navigation by GPS. There I was, in the woodlands of east-central Alabama, in a shoddy minivan (thanks Avis), Rand-McNally road atlas open on the passenger seat.

Totally lost.

I planned out the rest of that trip very well. I was going to Horseshoe Bend, I was going to Tuskegee, I was going to Chattanooga and Chickamauga and Plains, Georgia and Andersonville and the Ebeneezer Baptist Church. All were wonderful, informative, educational, and even moving. But for some, dumb reason, I phoned in the plan for Little River Canyon, and fell flat on my face.

Well, I didn’t literally fall on my face. What I literally did was drive around various backroads, trying to find the canyon. There was nary a sign to be seen, I just keep flitting around various windy roads, taking random left turns like a blithering jackass. Then, the storms rolled in.

First there were flashes of light, followed by the rumble of distant thunder. Then the sky turned black as night. The wind picked up, the rain fell, then went sideways, and then the flash of the lightning and the crash of the thunder occurred nearly simultaneously. I was in the eye of the maelstrom, in a shitty rented minivan, surrounded by 100’ tall loblolly pines. I was waiting for that one tree to give up its ghost, forcing me to give up mine.

In about 15 minutes, the storm passed and the sky cleared. Heart pounding, I pressed on, and there, on my right, revealed by the sunlight, was the Little River Canyon. It was cool and all, and incredibly photogenic in that moment, but all I wanted to do was go back to my hotel and have a drink.

I haven’t made too many boneheaded mistakes in my visits to over 200 National Park sites, but my short visit to Little River Canyon was one of the dumbest.


I didn’t own a digital camera when I visited the canyon. The photo is from the National Park Service website: https://www.nps.gov/liri/index.htm

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Contemplation

I was very fortunate when I visited Lincoln Home NHS. Due to some unknown confluence of circumstance, I toured the park when there were virtually no other visitors. There were maybe a dozen in all, including the four who accompanied me on a tour of the house.

I am a little sad when important historical sites have no visitors. I worry that Americans are failing their children by ignoring their own history, being otherwise enrapt in their video games or casinos or cruise ships. But I’m also more than a little grateful, for it gives me time to experience the importance of place, ponder the passage of time, and contemplate the importance of it all.

The site covers a scant four blocks, but the houses therein are well-preserved in 1860 style. The effect is quite immersive: sans many other tourists, it is easy to imagine yourself in 1846, walking towards 413 S. 8th St., dressed in your finest frock coat and sporting your best cane, so you can wish the newly-elected Representative Abraham Lincoln a fine good morning and sincere congratulations on his recent victory. Perhaps you truly believe the sentiment, perhaps you are hoping to curry favor, but regardless, you have performed proper pleasantries as is expected of a gentleman, and now must visit the mercantile to see if your package has arrived.

I believe that vacations should include not only excitement, awe, and wonder, but also quiet, and also contemplation. With summer upon us, here’s hoping you find all five during your next vacation.

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Pictures are mine and thusly copyrighted.

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