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Posts Tagged ‘travel’

[Alcatraz is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.]

Missed Opportunity – Sort Of

I actually didn’t make it to Alcatraz Island itself during my recent trip to San Francisco. If you go, don’t make the same, dumbass mistake I did. Call ahead and get your tickets in advance! Don’t assume visiting off-season will help you …

An Alcatraz tour an impossibility, I had to settle for second- (or perhaps third- or fourth-) best: a craptastic bay cruise put on by some local outfit. (I’d also add in “expensive”, but everything in San Fran’s expensive, so why bother mentioning it). The boat was a pit, the crew uninspired, and they had this annoying tape of some drunken lout reading a horrible script over lousy speakers. I had to block out these fabulous accommodations, and just zone in the bay itself.

San Francisco is really beautiful, and a great place to take a quick cruise. The bay is frothy and windy and cold, but the views are terrific! You’ve got the city itself, the tony suburbs of Sausalito and Tiberon, the park on Angel Island, and, of course, the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge. The greater Bay Area is truly beautiful.

Well, until you get to Alcatraz Island, that is.

Seals and Alcatraz — © 2008 America In Context

In my travels from sea to shining sea, I’ve never seen a place so truly ugly, so exuding of evil from its very pores, as Alcatraz. Yeah, I’ve seen a lot of miserable slums and decrepitude, but nothing like this. Its ugliness lies in such stark contrast to the beauty of the Bay, it’s shocking. It’s simply … vile. I’m not sure I want to set foot on the island now. Yeah, it might be fascinating, but it’s a morbid fascination: a fascination with criminals and punishment, two things that don’t particularly interest me.

It’s Gotta Be a Sickness

I don’t find crime interesting in the least. I find it repugnant. On top of that, I find it repugnant that people are fascinated by crime. Well, let me be more specific, here. I can see how investigating crimes, tracking perpetrators, and interpreting the criminal mind can be fascinating. I’m a big fan of CSI, for example, and not just because I’ve had a crush on the lovely Marg Helgenberger since China Beach. There’s a whole science to criminal investigation that is incredibly fascinating.

Pit of Hell — © 2008 America In ContextWhat I do find repugnant are those folks who dwell on criminals and criminal acts themselves. I’m talking about those who follow cases that have nothing whatsoever to do with them or anyone they know, just for the sheer sick pleasure of doing so. I’m talking about those who follow the lives of criminals, or the suffering of the victims, with a morbid, twisted pleasure at a level much, much worse than traffic-accident rubbernecking or attraction to snuff/torture films like Saw or Hostel. I’m talking about folks like Nancy Grace and other media scumbags who will dwell on the horrors of individual crimes solely for ratings, couching it under terms like “news”, gratuitously amplifying stories to ludicrous extremes that a term like “exploitation” doesn’t seem to do it justice. And yes, I’m talking about folks who watch those shows, too. Jon Benet Ramsay, Nicole Brown Simpson, Ronald Goldman, Laci Peterson: these were all victims, folks! Their deaths are tragedies, not entertainment! Show a little bit of respect for the victims and their families, and leave them alone! And don’t give the media weasels the gratification of high ratings, turn the channel to something more wholesome, like South Park or WWE Wrestling or something.

Crime? Or Punishment?

I’m sure there are a lot of visitors to Alcatraz who have this morbid fascination with crime and the criminal underworld. But there are also others who simply want to see “The Rock” out of curiosity, and that’s fine. The stories of Al Capone and Machine Gun Kelley are interesting, and there are the Alcatraz ghost stories, and the story of the American Indian occupation in 1969. So there is a lot of cool stuff about the island.

But, me being me, I see Alcatraz and have to think, not about crime, but about punishment.

Indians Welcome — © 2008 America In ContextCrime, unfortunately, is a reality in America. It’s a price to pay for living in a free society (ironically, the most “crime free” nations throughout history were really harsh dictatorships). So how is a free, advanced society supposed to handle crime? I look at how we do it here in America, and I have to think “there must be a better way.” But I can’t figure out what that way is. We seem to focus an awful lot on punishment, but not a lot on rehabilitation. But rehabilitation itself seems a farce, look at recidivism rates. Yet we can’t just keep punishing, for those who chronically punish are themselves lessened by the act (to see more views on what I mean by that, see my Andersonville post). And if punishment is bad, what about the death penalty? But contrast execution of criminals with lifetime imprisonment at public expense, and something doesn’t quite compute there either. It seems like the right answer is to stop creating environments where criminality develops, but until we take seriously the problems of inner city poverty and development, and find a real resolution to the drug problem, that’s a complete pipe dream. Of course, a lot of criminals have nothing to do with inner cities or drugs (John Wayne Gacy, Timothy McVeigh, Charles Manson, etc.)….

I don’t know what the right answer is. Clearly, with about 2.5 million prisoners nationwide, and a recidivism rate of about 50%, America hasn’t figured it out, either.

Bleagh, what a wretched topic. I’m gonna go watch South Park now.

The Rock and the Bay — © 2008 America In Context

See my other photos of Alcatraz Island here.

Links:

Alcatraz Island (part of Golden Gate National Recreation Area)

Alcatraz History

Alcatraz is Not an Island

Bureau of Justice Statistics

Google map to Alcatraz Island

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Failure In Success

Antietam is one of the great battles of the American Civil War, involving 130,000 soldiers (infantry, cavalry, and artillery). There’s only one way to describe the Battle of Antietam: a bloody, awful mess. It is remembered in history as the single, deadliest one-day battle ever fought on American soil. The Union won the field that day, in spite of bad command decisions by General George McClellan and his field commanders. Lee was driven away, his weaker numbers unable to take victory, despite his own tactical brilliance. By the end of the day, over 3600 men were dead, and another 19,000 injured (and likely dead shortly thereafter, thanks to medical practices in the 19th century). A bloody, awful mess, indeed.

Confederate Dead — public domain photo courtesy of Antietam on the Web

A lot of men died in the Civil War. Over 600,000 men gave their lives on the field of battle through the course of the war, and (as always happens in war) an uncountable number of civilians lost theirs as well. But Antietam holds another special place in American history. The pre-Grant Union Army could do what only the pre-Grant Union Army could do: it snatched defeat from the claws of victory. If Gen. McClellan was any kind of able commander, instead of the pompous ass he was, he would have crushed the Confederate army right then and there, and ended the war within 18 months of its inception at Fort Sumter. But McClellan lacked something that defines winners from losers: energy and drive. He allowed his forces (thousands of whom didn’t even fire a shot) to rest on their laurels while Robert E. Lee’s men retreated southward. If only McClellan had acted then and there, and whupped Lee in the fields of Maryland, the war would have been over.

Lincoln and McClellan — public domain photo courtesy of Antietam on the WebI really want to let that soak in a bit. If McClellan had acted, the Battle of Fredericksburg would not have happened (2,000 dead). Spotsylvania would not have happened (4,000 dead). Chancellorsville would not have happened (est. 5,000 dead). Chickamauga would not have happened (est. 6,000 dead). The Battle of Gettysburg would not have happened (8,000 dead). Richmond would not have been sacked and looted. New York would not have had its draft riots. Atlanta would not have been burned to the ground. Virginia would not have had its entire countryside scoured by war. And maybe an assassin would not have claimed the life of the greatest President we ever had.

But McClellan sat on his lazy ass, Lee got away, and country had three more years of war. Good job, Georgie!

I suppose there is success in failure as well. One good thing came out of Antietam (beyond McClellan’s immediate firing): Lincoln’s most famous, yet most misunderstood, act — the Emancipation Proclamation. Lincoln had been working on it for some time, but needed the right moment to release it. As lame as McClellan’s actions were, he gave Lincoln that moment: a Union victory over the Confederate army. Lincoln released his document to the public, gave a wonderful speech, and America turned a vital corner away from slavery (read more commentary on Lincoln and the Emancipation Proclamation here).

Walk the Path of History

A Lone Grave — public domain photo courtesy of Antietam on the WebEven though I love the National Park Service and the sites they protect, I have to admit: many of the Civil War sites are nearly undecipherable. You have to really use your imagination to envision the order of battle or the strategic importance of the terrain. It’s hard to imagine a line of Union artillery in a Wendy’s parking lot. What were they firing at, the Avis Car Rental?

Antietam, on the other hand, is a great park to envision an old battle. The Dunker Church still stands, the Cornfield has been replanted. Bloody Lane is still discernable, and the sturdy Burnside Bridge remains. The latter represents the greatest blunder of the Civil War behind Pickett’s Charge. Union Major General Ambrose Burnside ordered thousands of men to storm across the stone bridge, where they were easily slaughtered by well-placed Confederate riflemen. Old Dumb Ass didn’t realize he could send his thousands of troops across the creek itself, where their numbers would simply swarm over the enemy positions. The ruddy thing was only a couple of feet deep! Nothing I could write could explain the idiocy of funneling all your men across a tiny bridge where they could be slaughtered like crawdads at a Cajun restaurant. The Antietam National Battlefield preserves this land so perfectly that a short visit and some clever observations will reveal what should have been so obvious in 1862.

Antietam is a wonderful park to visit. It’s not a long drive from Washington, DC. Next time you’re in the nation’s capital, stop by Antietam. Make sure you stop by for a pint at Brewer’s Alley in Fredericksburg, MD!

Burnside Bridge — public domain photo courtesy of Antietam on the Web

Sadly, I didn’t own a digital camera when I visited Antietam. Historical pictures courtesy of a terrific Civil War website: Antietam on the Web.

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Links:

Antietam National Battlefield and Cemetery

Antietam on the Web

Brewer’s Alley Restaurant & Brewery

Google map to Antietam

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A Monument to Failure … And Fine Tailoring!

What can one say about a site dedicated to the memory of one of the worst Presidents in U.S. history? Not much, really.

Andrew Johnson was, indeed, one of the worst Presidents ever. Talk about wrong place/wrong time! Why, oh why, did Lincoln have a lout like Johnson as Veep in 1865? Well, politics, of course. Just like today, the vice presidential candidate is primarily chosen to gain the votes of a certain constituency. As military governor of Tennessee, it was hoped that Johnson’s nomination as Vice President would bring more War Democrats into the Republican Party. Of course, it did, and, of course, we were stuck with that choice after Honest Abe was shot in the head.

Andrew Johnson — publid domain photo courtesy of WikipediaJohnson would later go on to near-total failure as President. He started Reconstruction on horrible footing, famously vetoing the Freedman’s Bureau: “This is a country for white men, and by God, as long as I am President, it shall be a government for white men.” He also blocked initial passage of the 14th Amendment (which includes the extremely important Due Process and Equal Protection Under the Law clauses). Real enlightened there, Andy…

Johnson would later be impeached, but acquitted, just like another, more recent President. Let’s let that sink in for a moment: here we are, America, over 230 years old, and we’ve had back-to-back Presidents that can be mentioned in the same breath as poor, miserable, drunken, uneducated Andrew Johnson: one for impeachment, and the other for incompetence.

He wasn’t a total failure. He did pressure the French to get out of Mexico. I’d rather have taco stands than escargot wagons on the street corners of San Diego any day. His Secretary of State, William Henry Seward, negotiated the deal for Alaska, which is a wonderful place. Of course, Seward was appointed by Lincoln, so even then, Johnson was effectively useless, but hey, gotta give our Presidents props wherever we can, no?

I guess it goes to show that anyone, no matter how incompetent, can get a few things right after all. According to legend, he was a damn fine tailor in his younger days! I’m sure, in 50 or 100 years from now, there will be a site in central Texas dedicated to the damned fine brush-clearing skills of another lackluster American president.

Good People, Though

I do want to state, however, that I think Greeneville itself is a real nice place. I liked walking around the town as I visited Johnson’s home. It’s clean, and quiet, with a couple of good diners and a pleasant, small town atmosphere. It’s also really proud of its heritage. I met two nice ladies who were so proud of East Tennessee’s history, they begged me to take the town’s official history tour that afternoon. But, alas, it wasn’t meant to be. I had to head back to my motel near the Smokies before that great tourist trap known as Gatlinburg got too ridiculous.

I still have a fondness for tiny little Greenville, Tennessee.

Johnson Home — public domain photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Sadly, I didn’t own my digital camera when I toured Andrew Johnson NHS, so no pictures. Sorry.

Links:

Andrew Johnson National Historic Site

C-Span Survey of Presidential Leadership

Google map to AJ NHS

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The Glories of Innovation

I love innovation, I really do. I guess I’m just an old techno-geek. I love stumbling across things that are so brilliant, inventions that show not only the intelligence, but the sheer drive and willpower of idea-men and those who craft those ideas into reality. One of those happy little discoveries was the Allegheny Portage Railroad.

This is one of those stories that takes a little while to tell. Way back in the early 1800’s, we really were the United States of America. We were just a collection of states assembled under one flag, instead of the Conforming States of Generica we seem to be now. The only difference between us back then and the modern day European Union is we were all illiterate under a common language. Other than that, the states were really separate entities, each culturally and economically different from the other.

Of course, every state competed with every other state. Who had the better industry? Who had the better cities? Who could attract the most immigrants (imagine that in this day and age)? Most importantly, who had the best economy? Then, as now, wealth begat power, wealth begat influence, wealth begat more wealth. Competition would be quite stiff at times, especially amongst rival Northern states.

Ohio River SteamboatIn the early 1800’s, westward expansion was really gearing up. The frontier represented opportunity. For settlers, it was the opportunity to find a new life. To the merchants in the eastern states, the frontier represented money. Settlers needed tools, and supplies, and seed. Settlers needed to sell their own products (timber, crops, cattle) to buy those tools, supplies, and seed. The merchants were ready to handle both sides of the equation. The nation, as today, ran on commerce. There were riches to be had on the frontier, that much was certain. But how do you transport all these people and goods back and forth? The answer was water.

The railroads hadn’t begun their dominance over the land yet. So America used its great waterways: the Ohio, the Mississippi, and the Great Lakes. Of course, there’s a small problem: how do you get goods from the wealthy merchant cities of Boston, Baltimore, New York, and Philadelphia, to these great waterways, and back? Well, by wagon, of course … oh wait, small problem: a little thing called the Appalachian Mountains. Sure, compared to the then-irrelevant Rocky Mountains, the Appalachians are nothing, mere bumps on the ground. But to a young nation with nothing more than mules and wooden wagons, these bumps formed a most impressive obstacle, to some states more than others.

New York managed quite well. They had a wonderful thing called the Hudson River that just so happened to run into the Mohawk River, which just so happened to run in a natural channel through the Adirondacks (thank you, Ice Age glaciers!). A little bit of digging across a reasonably forgiving stretch of land, and voila! They finished a little thing called the Erie Canal by 1825. This little gem of a project catapulted slimy little New York City into the financial powerhouse it is today.

Erie Canal courtesy of www.eriecanal.org

Maryland was soon following right along. They had a nice little waterway called the Potomac River running along their southern border. They still had to cross the mountains to match the superiority of the Erie Canal, but their canal system got them pretty durn close. It was only a matter of time before they figured out how to cross the great mountains of what is now West Virginia. Oh wait, what’s that whistling noise? Oh yes, it’s called the railroad. Still in its infancy, the engineers of that famous Monopoly space — the B&O Railroad — figured out how to keep their crude engines carrying freight to the Ohio River and beyond. They would be carrying frontier goods very soon.

But Pennsylvania, oh poor Pennsylvania! What to do? If they didn’t carve a path to the frontier, they would be ruined! New York already took over Philadelphia’s preeminence, and now Maryland? Pennsylvania had a river leading up to the mountains (the Susquehanna). They had a river leading away from them (the Ohio). But what about that spur of the Appalachians, the blasted Alleghenies! The glaciers didn’t come far enough south to scour great grooves in those escarpments. The Keystone State was, basically, screwed. So, what to do?

1846 Pennsylvania courtesy of www.mapsofpa.com

This is where the brilliance came in. What do you do with mountains? You climb them, of course (well, duh!).

The Allegheny Portage Railroad was the resultant masterpiece. It was a series of inclined railways, powered by fixed engines at various locations. You throw a freight car on it, hoist it up one side and down the other, simple! They even invented canal boats on wheels: you paddle up, hook up one end, and tow it up and down to the next river! Fixed engines made it simple and manageable, and less problematic, than the early railroad engines. The whole thing was brilliant and ingenious, and saved Pennsylvania from ruin.

Well, not really. It ran poorly. It broke a lot, there were a lot of devastating accidents. Have you ever seen a heavily-laden cable snap? It’s called “mass beheading”. Yeah, it wasn’t the best operating system in the world, but it did what it needed to do for 20 years, when the steam engine really came into its prime and men figured out how to lay good track and blast holes through mountains.

Even though, I really love the notion of the Allegheny Portage Railroad. Image floating along on a fine autumn afternoon, watching fisherman, and farmers, and children playing tag. Hawks circling above, looking for some stray rabbit for dinner. Your passenger barge pulls up to the Allegheny Portage Railroad, and you’re hoisted up the mountains. The crisp, cool air refreshes your lungs, the foliage-laden Alleghenies are a perfect backdrop for a perfect day.  You toast your crossing with fellow passengers, and are lowered down to the other river, where your future awaits on the Great Frontier!

All great fun, until someone gets beheaded.

Pulleys & Twine — © 2008 America In Context

To my knowledge, no one was actually beheaded by a cable during the operation of the railroad. A steam boiler did explode on Incline Plane #6, killing four people, and there were plenty of other injuries. But nothing livens up a story like a good beheading, don’t you think?

[Original photos © 2008 America In Context. Historical maps found through http://www.maphistory.info/]

Sadly, due to poor CD management, many of my Allegheny photos are gone. The few I have, such as they are, are here.

Links:

Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site

Historical Maps of Pennsylvania

Google map to Allegheny Portage Railroad

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