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Archive for the ‘South Dakota’ Category

Minuteman Missile National Historic Site, near Philip, South Dakota

On the plains of South Dakota, just off Exit 127 on I-90, north of Badlands National Park, sits a building whose most flattering description would include the words “tan” and “bland”. The only thing vaguely interesting about it are the satellite dishes in the yard and the chain-link fence with “Restricted Area” in a barely-readable font. You might be surprised by its purpose, but probably not, because the only reason you’d even be on this empty road, avoiding the occasional pronghorn antelope, would be to visit the Delta-01 control facility for the 66th Strategic Missile Squadron, 44th Missile Wing. This is one of many places that had a very simple task: be prepared to end the world. You’d expect visitors to such a place would be met with a sense of fear, or perhaps awe, or maybe a little megalomania.

I found it hilarious.

Finger of Death

Highly-trained personnel lived in this oversized, vinyl-sided, ranch house, trained to turn two keys, in tandem, in order to launch Minuteman II missiles, each with 6,300 mile range, and topped with a 1.2 megaton (at least) warhead. These death machines were part of a “countervalue” attack strategy: designed to eliminate 30% of the population, and 50% of the industry, of the U.S.S.R. The term we used was “mutually assured destruction”, a truly horrific concept.

Yet, still, I found it hilarious.

There are multiple reasons for this, including the possibility that I’m simply a sick son of a bitch. It could also be that the entire concept is ludicrous: two world powers spent billions of dollars convincing the other that we’d blow you to hell if you try to blow us to hell. Yeah, let’s do that, instead of trying to figure out how to get along, or simply letting each other do our own thing. Well, at least we’d all be in hell together, I suppose. Maybe then we’d get along, amongst the brimstone, sulfur, and endless HOA meetings.

Behold the Three-Phase Toaster!

There’s some psychology at work here. People can respond to unfathomable terror in at least two ways: cower in fear, or laugh at the inanity of it all. It’s not just a coping mechanism, but it also helps in problem solving. If one can laugh at something, it diminishes the magnitude, allowing one to redirect the energy eaten up by stress to the analytical part of the brain. Of course, as we’ve seen by the state of our political discourse, the analytical part of the brain is a rarely-used resource. There’s no doubt as to why we were never able to resolve our Cold War differences.

Our tour guide at Minuteman NHS leaned into the hilarity, pointing out the cathode-ray tube computer displays; analog rotary-dial telephones; the collection of 70’s boardgames to help airmen fight boredom; an armored vehicle — looking more like a torture device than a truck (a clear inspiration for Elon Musk) — for patrolling missile sites; and the rusty Weber grill and charred coffee can used to burn paper cypher keys, all considered “historical artifacts” by the National Park Service. I lived through the 70’s & 80’s, the idea that any of it comprises a “historical era” is hilarious by itself. The only things missing are the avocado green bathroom fixtures ….

Satellite TV and a Prototype Death Trap Cybertruck

All joking aside, it is frustrating that we lived through those years of nuclear testing, duck-and-cover drills, shoe-banging U.N. speeches, state-sponsored coups, and proxy wars, all for nothing. We still have madmen at the helms of the largest world powers, we’re still arguing with each other instead of working together, we’re still not stepping out from behind our own patriotic flag-waving and media-fueled rage to look and see that most of our differences are simply tropes used to manipulate public opinion.

Yet, regardless of any of that, we still have our ability to laugh at the inanity of it all, and redirect our energy to solving the problem. If only we would.

Guaranteed

[AI was not used to research or write any part of this essay. Pictures are mine and thusly copyrighted].

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Links:

Minuteman Missile National Historic Site

Timeline of the Cold War

Comedy in Combat Culture

Google map to Minuteman Missile

Flickr page

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Nightmare World

When I started this little quest of mine, there were a handful of sites that I knew I absolutely must see. I wanted to see Alaska’s glaciers and the tundra. I wanted to see giant sequoias. I wanted to see Devil’s Tower. And I absolutely wanted to see the Badlands.

Badlands. Badlands. BADLANDS. Oof, what a name! The word itself evokes harsh visions of a struggle for survival. If you’re a writer, you can’t go wrong if you include “Badlands” in the title of your Western novel. “Death on the Badlands”. “Terror on the Badlands”. “Vengeance on the Badlands”. “Ghosts of the Badlands”. Kick-ass names for what would hopefully be kick-ass books. And the name is so appropriate for the place. The Badlands of South Dakota is its own metaphor, exuding toughness and courage and evil and triumph. Even the native tribes of old didn’t like this place. “Mako sica” the Lakota Sioux called it: Badlands.

Badlands — © 2008 America In Context

And boy oh boy, Badlands National Park doesn’t disappoint. The elements scar this land like battery acid on new jeans. Water gouges at the exposed ground, leaving an eerie, yet oddly beautiful, jagged landscape. Dust chokes the lungs when the wind picks up. Even the dirt itself is harsh: when dry, it’s a hard, crusty material, unsuitable for supporting life. Add a little water, it adheres then hardens like concrete. Add more water and it becomes an unnavigable slick.

The Badlands is really nothing more than a separation between two levels of prairie. To the north is the high plains, to the south is the low plains. Erosional forces slowly move “the wall”, separating high from low, to the northwest. In the interim, infrequent rain scars the dividing line. And it’s not really dead, there are plenty of trees and shrubs and grasses and deer and rabbits and hawks. It’s just another facet of nature at work, acting in its own way. It is ugly, it is bad, it is dangerous, but it is beautiful. “Cool as shit” would be an apt phrase.

The Wall — © 2008 America In Context

The first day I went to the Badlands was intended as just a drive-through. I had visited the Crazy Horse Memorial earlier that day, and was running out of daylight, but I wanted to swing by the Wounded Knee site, and then take a short drive up this little trail labeled, innocuously enough, Sheep Mountain Table. What a wretched mistake! The Sheep Mountain Table road is a horribly rutted, muddy, dead-end trail. I ended up slip-sliding my way around, fearful of getting stuck, finally finding my way out with a filth-sodden rental car. What a mess!

The next day was much better: I got out of the car and hiked along The Wall for a few hours. So utterly fascinating, yet still so dangerous. Dehydration is a serious problem, as is the choking dust and the burning sun. But, as I said, immensely cool. It’s like a stroll through the Mos Eisley spaceport or something. Definitely a place to be experienced! Life, and especially nature, is not all sweetness and light. Some parts are tough, but that’s part of the fun. Get off your butts, get out of your car, take a rough trail, and put some toughness into your life!

Mos Eisley — © 2008 America In ContextA couple of recommendations:

For some good shopping, stop at the Cedar Pass Lodge near the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. They sell locally-made native art, really nice stuff. Got a few pieces for my collection.

For a good laugh, take a stop at Wall, South Dakota. This tourist trap spells “kitsch” with a capital K. Ludicrous gift shops, overpriced crappy restaurants, biker bars, the whole nine yards!

For a good cry, go to the site of the Wounded Knee Massacre on the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. It’s not the history that’s the real sad part, it’s the surroundings. If you doubt that true poverty exists in America, go to the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.

For a good beer, go to the Firehouse Brewing Company in Rapid City. A most excellent place! Also take a walk amongst the statues of the Presidents, and shop in some of the neat stores downtown. Rapid City is one of the better small-city downtowns left in America.

I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to the Dakotas. I’ll make other posts about the other National Park Service sites in the Dakotas in the future, but for now, I can only recommend that you go and visit, if nothing else, The Badlands.

Green in the Valley —  © 2008 America In Context

[All photos on this post are originals © 2008 America In Context. To see more original photos of The Badlands, click here.]

Links:

Live Blooms — © 2008 America In ContextBadlands National Park

The Battle of Wounded Knee

Firehouse Brewing Company

Google map to the Badlands

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