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Posts Tagged ‘travel’

A Welcome Respite

Sure, there’s some historical significance to the Coronado National Memorial. Famed Spanish explorer & would-be conqueror, Francisco Vรกzquez de Coronado, entered the present-day United States nearby in 1540. But the great thing about Coronado is its role as an oasis.

Now before I go any further, let me say that I really liked Arizona. It was my first big state tour west of the Mississippi, and I really loved that trip. There’s an awful lot to see and do, it’s really a beautiful state. But it is freakin’ hot.

Bob Thompson MountainComing from the cool Northeast, I had a really hard time adjusting to the blast furnace of southern Arizona (see my post on Chiricahua). Saguaro is a desert, Organ Pipe is the hottest spot in America, and Tucson and Phoenix are scorching blacktop heat islands. But Coronado was great. It’s situated on the northern side of the Sierra Madre, meaning it doesn’t get the full blast of the sun. The ground is also moister than the rest of the state, probably because of the mountains and the geological implications of the water table. The place is quite cool and surprisingly lush. A stop at Coronado is a welcome respite for those circling through Arizona’s national park sites.

The park’s HQ has some antique chain mail on display, the rainfall has created a wet cave up the slope (reminiscent of Gollum’s lair in The Hobbit), and there are some enjoyable, windy roads through the nearby mountains (I advise a sunset drive, really beautiful views abound). Just don’t pick up any hitchhikers….

I know, it doesn’t sound particularly exciting. But it is a nice change of pace.

[I didn’t own a digital camera when I visited Coronado. Pic courtesy of the National Park Service.]

Links:

Coronado National Memorial

Coronado’s Exploration into the American Southwest

Coronado Trail Scenic Byway

Google map of Coronado

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9/11, Patriotism, and the Spirit of America

The events of Sept. 11, 2001, were horrible. I don’t know about the rest of you, but 9/11 threw me into a state of grief I had never encountered before. Honestly, at one point that very afternoon, I stepped out of the building, sat at a nearby picnic table, put my head in my hands, and cried. Tears of pure grief. I had never felt real grief before. Yeah, I had lost family members, including my grandfather, a man I deeply admired. But those were expected deaths, deaths resulting from a life long lived. 9/11 was a complete shock, a true tragedy, and different from anything I had ever seen before.

Firefighter & Flag

The terrorists attacks upon the World Trade Center and the Pentagon, and the foiled Flight 93 attack, killed 3000 people. It was the greatest loss of life in a single day on American soil due to conflict since Antietam. But I was not in grief solely because of the horrible loss of life, or of the families torn apart, or of the resulting economic turmoil. I was in grief because I felt I was witnessing the beginning of the end. Nations and civilizations can fall because of great tragedies. Would 9/11 be the catalyst for the collapse of the Great American Experiment? This is what I felt I was witnessing: the defeat and collapse of the country I loved.

For the first time in my lifetime, America had been directly attacked. Not one of our outposts, not some ship in a foreign port, but one of our own cities. And not just one of our cities, but our greatest city. And not just attacked, but brutally and savagely with devastating effect. Just what the hell was happening? Have our decades of choices since WWII been so misguided that a huge segment of the world – namely 900 million Muslims – wants to destroy us? How did we go so wrong? Would our decadent and irresponsible society recover? Could our incompetent leadership handle this tragedy properly and put us back on the right path? This was my state of mind in the aftermath of 9/11: doubt, discouragement, grief.

Washington QuoteI had already made my plans to visit park sites in Virginia and North Carolina in the fall of ’01 when 9/11 happened. Of course, I had to go through with my trip. Even though my faith in the country was shattered, hiding in the basement was clearly not the answer. I had dear friends flying to Hawaii for their honeymoon, I couldn’t be a coward and stay home. So, grief-stricken and all, I packed up and headed south.

Colonial National Historical Park was one of my first stops on that swing through the South. It’s the home of the famous Yorktown Battlefield, where the Revolutionary War was settled in 1781. I was twitchy during the entire drive from Connecticut. By then the planes were flying again, and I found myself startled every time I heard a jet engine. Was it crashing into a building?? I found myself alarmed whenever the radio cut out. Did terrorists take out a radio tower (many New York-area radio stations went off the air during the WTC attacks)?? The worst moment was when I saw a group of Muslims sitting & talking in a pavilion near the Colonial visitor’s center. They made me nervous & suspicious, clearly a prejudicial reaction of which I am not proud.

Surrender of Lord Cornwallis

Now normally, I revel in the history of our national park sites. I’ll go through all the displays, do as many trails as I can, investigate the terrain and surroundings, try to internalize the significance of the events at hand. At Yorktown, I clearly went through the motions, lost in a fog of my post-9/11 funk. It was a beautiful fall day, the peak of autumn colors, bright blue skies, but I was just wandering around, avoiding the public, just roaming the grounds. But I did manage to notice a few people in a field, clearly interested in something in the skies up ahead.

There, above a field, near the very site where Cornwallis surrendered to Washington, giving Americans their freedom, circled two bald eagles.

There’s a lot to be said about symbolism. Psychologists, archaeologists, writers, artists, Madison Avenue marketing experts and politicians study and leverage the power of symbols on a daily basis. Symbols can sway opinions, change moods and can even affect the course of a nation. Powerful symbols can affect the most intelligent, pragmatic folks, and even impact the cynical and the jaded (although they are loathe to admit it). Never underestimate the power of a well-placed and well-timed symbol.

Bald EagleBald eagles were not common in Virginia. Their numbers are improving (in fact there’s been a great resurgence of the species) but they were still fairly rare in the southern Eastern Seaboard. Yet there they were, just circling around above the field, clear as day in the bright, blue sky.

I don’t know if it was the symbolism of the bald eagle circling a site of such great historical significance, or if the coolness of seeing such beautiful birds in an area where they are rare, or if it was just something different to snap me out of my funk, but whatever it was, I felt better after that point. Later I realized that we managed to keep this country together for more than 200 years, through some really tough times, and although 9/11 was terrible, it really didn’t crush the country. We’d recover.

In the years since 9/11, we’ve had a tough time of it. We had some bad governance, went down some really dark paths, but I’m convinced (perhaps especially in light of the recent election) that we’ll get out of this. I still have faith in the Great American Experiment, even though we’ve been sidetracked by events external and internal. The great, extinct nations of the past died because of stagnation, but here we have a chance to change our direction every election cycle. The eagles of Yorktown mirror that belief: once on the brink of extinction, the great birds have rebounded because we changed our direction. Our decisions to ban DDT and provide bald eagle habitat saved the species. If we can do that, we can also make the choice to change our direction and save the country. That gives me great optimism.

Not to say I’m not still jaded and cynical, I guess I’m just optimistically jaded and cynical. ๐Ÿ˜›

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[I didn’t own a digital camera when I visited Colonial NHP in 2001. All pictures are, I believe, in the public domain.]
Links:

Colonial National Historical Park

A Collection of Post-9/11 Essays (not all of which are endorsed by AiC)

Recovery of the Bald Eagle

Google map to Colonial NHP

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I have returned!

Just got back from a two-week jaunt to New Mexico (with a few side trips to Arizona & Texas). Another 18 National Park Service sites down!

I hit NM at a great time: temperatures were mild but still pre-snowfall, and the aspens and alders were ablaze with golden color. Haven’t been through my pictures yet, but I’m expecting some fantastic shots.

If there is an overriding theme of New Mexico parks, it’s ‘historic tribal life in the shadow of extinct volcanoes’. Cliff dwellings are carved into the ash piles of ancient volcanoes. Petroglyphs are carved into well-patinaed volcanic rocks. Trading roads criss-cross waterless lava fields. Natural flint mounds, formed from the pressures of hot ash, form the basis of Indian economies.

From a wide view, New Mexico represents what this blog is all about: forces of nature directly lead to forces of society. One cannot separate the natural world from humanity, and, when you throw in the effects of Spanish exploration and conquest, one cannot separate one segment of humanity from another. Events a million years ago lead to events 2000 years ago lead to events happening yesterday. Only when you put all these elements together, in context with one another, do you truly understand America.

This trip also re-energized my interest in America’s National Parks, and I hope to be posting regularly again soon. ๐Ÿ™‚

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Angel of Mercy

OK, this is sappy time. I hate sappy time. I like trying to be insightful, I like to try to put the pieces together. I like trying to be observant, I like pointing out things that might not be obvious. And I love being snarky, cynical, humorous, and rebellious. But, due to the subject matter, I can’t be anything else but sappy today.

Clara Barton -- Public Domain Photo Courtesy of WikipediaClara Barton National Historic Site is truly unique amongst all of the historic sites in the National Park System. To my knowledge, it is the only site that was originally built with honorable, selfless intentions. I can think of no other site that was built upon as many good intentions as the collection of buildings erected by Clara Barton and her American Red Cross organization on the outskirts of Washington, DC.

This is a site where a visit really drives home the point of the person or organization it honors. It is a fairly sizable estate, but every building was built for a single purpose: helping people in trouble, whether from war or disaster or hardship. It was built 25 years after the Civil War, where Clara Barton aided the wounded at the horrific battles of Manassas, Antietam, Fredericksburg and others. It was built 20 years after her trip to Europe, where she first heard the ideals of the International Red Cross. It was built 10 years after she took those ideals back to the States and founded the American Red Cross. It is a set of buildings that exudes from their very timbers the goodwill, helpfulness, and sympathy that comes from a caring heart.

Clara Barton House -- Public Domain Photo Courtesy of WikipediaClara Barton’s home doesn’t have a magnificent name, she was beyond such vainglorious honorifics. It’s not lined in comfort or affluence, she was neither born into wealth nor had a desire to accumulate it. It doesn’t even have any remarkable architectural elements, such things are trivialities compared with the sufferings of man. What her home did have were dozens of bedrooms, lots of storage and warehouses, proximity to Washington, DC, and easy access to the main byways of the nation. On her property, she could house those left homeless by disaster, stockpile and ships tons of emergency supplies, and lobby Washington endlessly on behalf of those who needed help.

The remarkable thing about Clara Barton’s home is it was, indeed, her home. So she lived amongst all of these charitable activities day in and day out. She truly committed her entire life to it. She wasn’t some rich philanthropist who gave cash to charity and head out for steak tartare with her socialite friends. She wasn’t some politician who cuts a ribbon at an AIDS clinic and skeedaddles before the sick people show up. She was there, with her operation, day and night, night and day. This was truly a remarkable woman.

Red Cross Initiation Ceremony -- Public Domain Photo Courtesy of Wikipedia

Now it has been said that Clara Barton could also be a terrible taskmaster and, frankly, a real bitch. I also know that the Red Cross has not had a sterling reputation throughout its entire history (witness the scandals after 9/11 and Katrina). And, when I was younger, I personally talked to WWII veterans who hated the Red Cross (I think the Red Cross was useless when families fraught with disaster needed to urgently track down soldier sons & husbands). But, in my opinion, no other charitable American had both the kindness of heart, and the spirit and determination, to help as many people as Clara Barton did.

I challenge any reader to think of any other NPS site that is built upon as many good intentions as Clara Barton’s home in Glen Echo, Maryland. If you want to nominate one, please post a comment and we’ll talk about it!

Red Cross Headquarters -- Public Domain Photo Courtesy of Wikipedia

[For some reason, I don’t have any pictures from my visit to Clara Barton NHS. I know I owned a digital camera, but I must have run out of memory on my disk or something. It was the first year I owned one, so I probably screwed up somehow. A wholly reasonable notion, based on the operator ๐Ÿ˜‰ . Pictures on this post are public domain photos courtesy of Wikipedia.]

Links:

Clara Barton National Historic Site

American Red Cross

Apharesis (This is an alternative way to donate blood, where you donate the life-saving platelets & plasma but you keep your own red blood cells. This means it doesn’t tire you out like regular blood donation. If you’re an eligible blood donor, try it out. I do it regularly and like it. Frankly, it’s the only way I can relax for an hour or so in this hectic-assed world ๐Ÿ˜‰ )

Google map to Clara Barton NHS

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