Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘travel’

Small and Forgotten

Some National Park System sites are huge (Wrangell-St. Elias in Alaska is over 13 million acres – twice as big as my home state of Massachusetts). Some are tiny, such as the African-American Civil War Memorial, nestled in a small plot at the intersection of Vermont, 10th, & U St. in Washington, D.C. All NPS sites can tell you a lot, however, if you only chose to listen.

African-American Civil War Memorial — © 2008 America In ContextI wanted to post an essay about the courage of black soldiers during the Civil War; about their bravery, their sacrifice, and the difficulties they faced. There is so much to tell, so much the average American doesn’t know. But I find myself distracted with more immediate concerns.

In preparation for this post, I wanted to read up on the history of the memorial. So I visited the National Park Service’s site, www.nps.gov. And wouldn’t you know it, they have basically no valuable information about this memorial whatsoever!

This really troubles me. I know the AACWM is not tops on visitors’ “must see” list. There’s no way it can compete with the Washington Monument, the Jefferson Memorial, or the Smithsonian. But the role of the National Park Service is not one of tour guide, they are both a protector and a promoter of America’s natural, historical, and cultural treasures. Regardless of how small it is, the AACWM is one of those treasures, a monument to those who risked it all to free their own kinsmen from bondage. Their story is as important as the story of George Mason, whose own little monument has its own page on the NPS site.

The Park Service does a grave injustice by excluding this memorial. One cannot understand America without understanding black America. The history of black America is our history, it’s American history.  It’s not just some esoteric subject studied by 15% of the nation. And it really bothers me that the African-American Civil War Memorial gets such short-shrift from the National Park Service.

I urge visitors to Washington to take a half-hour out of their schedule and take the Green Line to U Street. It’s only a block east from there. Take a little more time and visit the nearby museum as well. Yes, it’s not the best area of the city, but that’s part of the American experience, too.

Faces — © 2008 America In Context

[All photos on this entry are originals by the blog owner.]

Links:

Sadly, there is no link to the National Park Service for this memorial.

African American Civil War Memorial Freedom Foundation and Museum

Google map to the AACWM

Read Full Post »

Peace and Unquiet

I find something magical in the Great Plains. I know, it’s just this big expanse of nuttin’, but I love the big, wide-open spaces. To stand in a spot where you can’t see anything, for miles and miles, feels so mentally and spiritually cleansing. It’s all about space, just experiencing the vastness of all dimensions, it’s … captivating.

View from Agate — © America In Context 2007

My very first experience with the Plains was not so captivating. I was returning from a business trip to San Jose, California. Shortly after the plane passed the Rocky Mountains, we hit a patch of turbulence. Patch? Patch nothing … the plane shook for nearly an hour! I really hate flying, I mean really hate it. We’re talking sheer, white-knuckled terror, and that’s on a good flight! This tumultuous one, well, either the plane was going to crash, or I was going to shake myself apart from the tension. Looking out the window, wide-eyed with fear, I could see the vast, unpopulated plains of Nebraska looming below me. “Anywhere but there”, I said to myself. “I don’t want to die in the middle of Nebraska!”

The pilot then comes on, and blurts out “well, we’re going to try to go up 5,000 more feet, see if it quiets down.” A twitch of the flaps and there we were, smooth as glass. I wanted to go up front and bitch-slap that bastard for waiting so long, but I couldn’t pry my fingers out of the armrests.

Being on the ground in Nebraska is so much better than flying over it.

Back On Topic

Funky Diorama — © America In Context 2007Agate Fossil Beds itself is nothing special. It’s just a couple of knolls in the prairie. But it does tell a fascinating paleontologic story. See, a couple of million years ago, there was this watering hole. Big herbivores loved this watering hole. Then, one day, it dried up. The herbivores started to starve. Then the predators came and ate them all up, but they too started to starve, for there were no more herbivores. Then the scavengers showed up and ate all the dead predators, but then they, too died, for there was nothing left to scavenge. All of them died in this big heap. A few million years later, paleontologists showed up, and wondered just what the hell happened! Was this some cultic suicide, did these Miocene animals drink some prehistoric Kool-Aid at the bidding of a dinosaur with a bad haircut wearing Ray-Bans? Or was it something more natural? It’s a neat story to those so inclined.

Agate does another wonderful thing: it helps preserve Native American culture. Here’s another case of individual bravery in the face of government brutality: a man by the name of James Cook owned a ranch near the fossil beds during the heyday of their excavation. He managed to befriend Red Cloud, chief of the Oglala Sioux. He often gave Red Cloud’s people aid and comfort during the painful years of reservation life. Red Cloud honored Cook through gifts of many Sioux-crafted items, all now displayed at Agate Fossil Beds. It’s a small, but quite impressive, collection. They also support Native artisans, and have regular showings of their current works.

It’s quite off the beaten path, but take a few hours to drive there. Lose yourself in the wide expanse that is the Great Plains (I recommend getting out of the car first, though. No zoning out behind the wheel, please).

Hide Painting — © America In Context 2007

[All pictures on this entry are originals by the blog owner.]

See all original photos of Agate Fossil Beds

Links:

Agate Fossil Beds National Monument

Google map to Agate Fossil Beds

—————————————–

Just for the heck of it, here’s a picture of a bunny:

Agate Bunny — © America In Context 2007

Read Full Post »

My Kind of Guy

Forget Ben Franklin. Forget Thomas Jefferson. Forget George Washington. John Adams is my favorite patriot.

I guess it goes back to my youth. I was in elementary school during the American Bicentennial in 1976. That was a huge time for patriotism and flag-waving, and interest in our Founding Fathers was at an all-time high.

One of our field trips actually took us to the movies – for a showing of the film version of the musical 1776. It’s an odd sort of thing, but seeing that film sparked, in me, an interest in American history that would smolder, unnoticed, until college fed it enough oxygen. Anyway, I digress…

There’s one terrific line in 1776 that I’ll never forget. Jefferson, Franklin, and others are trying to convince Adams to pen the Declaration of Independence. His retort? “Mr. Jefferson, I think that you should write it. I am obnoxious and ignored, you know it’s true!”

Even at 11 years old, I knew that described me as well: obnoxious and ignored. A kinship was forged.

John Adams — public domain photo courtesy of WikipediaAdams was not only obnoxious and ignored, he was also a rarity: a brilliant ideologue. I’m not overly fond of ideologues. Generally, I find them horribly lacking in any real insight or knowledge, they hide behind their ideology like a shield, avoiding true understanding (because that’s too hard). I prefer pragmatism and practicality. How do we solve problems? That question sparks brilliance, not some high-minded ideal of how the world should work.

But, certainly, there are issues that require staunch and unwavering ideology, dogmatic certainty, and tremendous zeal. At that time, American independence was one of those issues. The abolishment of slavery would be another, I’ll get to that later. As far as John Adams is concerned, he was the right zealot at absolutely the right time, and was the single patriot who pushed for independence more than any other. He absolutely aggravated and aggrieved his contemporaries, but still his point was made, and the Continental Congress moved in his direction.

The great thing about Adams the Zealot was he was also a man of tremendous personal integrity and wisdom. A great husband, a great writer, a great lawyer, a great patriot, unfortunately he was an ineffectual President. But he held fast to his convictions throughout all his life. Some of his quotes still resonate strongly today, and a few are still ominous in their warnings. I think that, after 200 years, and with our current political climate, we can still learn a lot from John Adams:

“There are two educations. One should teach us how to make a living and the other how to live.”

“Liberty cannot be preserved without general knowledge among the people.”

“Facts are stubborn things; and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passions, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence.”

“I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy.”

“Because power corrupts, society’s demands for moral authority and character increase as the importance of the position increases.”

“Remember, democracy never lasts long. It soon wastes, exhausts, and murders itself. There never was a democracy yet that did not commit suicide.”

That last one sends a chill down my spine, not only for its morose tone, but for the sneaky suspicion it’s accurate.

The First Emancipator

John Quincy Adams was, up until recently, a rarity: a son who followed his father into the Presidency. He was a rarity, up until recently, in another way: he did not win by popular vote, but won through that great Constitutional technicality, the Electoral College. He was a decent enough President but, like his father, he only served one term. And also like his father, it was his actions outside the Presidency that made him so invaluable to America.

John Q. Adams — public domain photo courtesy of WikipediaAs a diplomat, he oversaw the acquisition of Florida (so we’d have a place to dump our elderly), and fabricated the Monroe Doctrine, which drew a line in the sand to European colonization in the Americas. To Adams, this was a moral obligation of the United States. Europe must not further muck around in the affairs of the Americas. He didn’t advocate imperialism of our own, his idea was to allow the Americas to evolve into nations of their own, without outside interference. He was right, absolutely right. To this day, we are still dealing with the problems of long-terminated European colonization in Africa, the Middle East, and the Indian subcontinent. The problems of America are our problems, fomented internally, which is much better than problems foisted upon you by outsiders. Sadly, the Monroe Doctrine would later be used to justify invasions and actions on our own (like the Spanish-American War, a topic for a later time).

More importantly, John Q. Adams inherited his father’s zealous ideology in opposition to great injustice. In this case, I am referring to slavery. He not only famously argued the case of the schooner Amistad before the Supreme Court, he was a staunch and vocal opponent of slavery in the halls of Congress, battling that institution at every opportunity. In the decades before the Civil War, Congress managed to pass the Gag Order, prohibiting any discussion of slavery before Congress. This infuriated Adams, who set about trying to fight it at every turn. “I hold the resolution to be a direct violation of the Constitution of the United States, the rules of this House, and the rights of my constituents,” he bellowed across the House chamber.

Eventually, he would even make a grandiose declaration:

“From the instant that your slave-holding states become the theatre of war — civil, servile, or foreign — from that instant the war powers of the Constitution extend to interference with the institution of slavery in every way in which it can be interfered with.”

That’s right: John Quincy Adams set forth the principle that Abraham Lincoln would later use to write his famous Emancipation Proclamation. This is one of those brilliant chains in history: events lead to ideas which lead to ideas which lead to events. Uncovering these chains has been one of the great joys of my tours through the National Park System and American history.

Ideology – Well Preserved

The Adams family houses preserved by the National Park Service are wonderful. They have the two houses where the Adams’ were raised (an amazing feat considering decades of development in greater Boston), as well as the Adams manse “Peacefield”. This expanse is an absolute rarity among historic sites in America: all of the furnishings and contents of these houses is original to the original owners, including the vast collection of John Q. Adams’ books in a beautiful stone library (to protect Adams’ greatest possessions from fire – who says ideologues can’t also be practical?).

Normally (and recently, it would seem) ideologues ruin more than they create. The simplicity of their arguments usually belies the underlying realities of the times and does their constituency a great disservice. However, in at least two cases, this nation had serious issues requiring the intervention by serious ideologues. In both cases, we’re lucky we had the Adamses.

Peacefield — © 2008 America In Context

[Pictures of the Presidents are in the public domain, courtesy of Wikipedia. All other photos in this entry are originals by the blog owner.]

See all America In Context original photos of Adams NHP

Links:

Adams National Historical Park

Exploring Amistad
Amistad America
Google map to Adams’ NHP

Read Full Post »

Stupid Questions

“So, this is original, right?” I asked, pointing to the log cabin inside the granite mausoleum.

“No, it’s a replica.”

Cabin (courtesy of National Park Service)After this almost mandatory exchange, I asked the ranger how many people ask her this stupid question every day. “A lot”, she replied. Of course the log cabin at Lincoln’s Birthplace isn’t original. The original one was surely torn down and replaced by the next residents after the Lincolns moved to Indiana (log cabins were not known for their longevity). The ranger did proceed to discuss what was really important: the thoughts and writings of our greatest President, Abraham Lincoln.

One of my regrets during my NPS travels is I never get the names of the rangers and volunteers who staff these sites. Some of them, including this woman at Lincoln’s Birthplace, are truly stellar. She was very smart, and a very good communicator. She also knew a lot about Lincoln. Not just the contents of some script for park employees to parrot out on command, but she really studied and respected the man. She read a great many books on the subject, and spoke with a fluidity that only true knowledge can sustain. I was absolutely captivated when she spoke. It didn’t hurt that she was attractive as well, brilliant and beautiful is a great combination.

It’s a shame to hear that the Park Service doesn’t pay particularly well, nor do they adequately fund or staff these parks (the fault of an uninterested Congress). Even with those obstacles, some of their employees are terrific.

The Man, The Legend

It’s amazing how well liked, or even loved, our 16th President is in the U.S. There are no less than five National Park Service sites dedicated to Lincoln, and many educational and cultural institutions (and more elementary and secondary schools than you can shake a stick at) are named after him. Of course I’m looking at this through Yankee eyes (having been born and raised in Massachusetts), but I think he’s even loved in the south, although probably not as thoroughly.

Lincoln (public domain photo courtesy of Wikipedia)We should ask ourselves “why?” Why would a man who presided over the one and only War Between the States (the worst human bloodletting ever witnessed on the North American continent), a man who initiated the first widespread draft in America (leading to riots in New York City and other places), a man who suspended many legal rights (an act used years later as justification for Japanese interment and the Patriot Act), still be so loved by the American people? Not only loved, but perhaps even deified.

“Honest Abe”. “The Great Emancipator”. “The Man Who Saved the Union”. Lincoln was not always honest, he had to lie often during his Presidency (a wartime President is rarely blessed with opportunities to be honest). Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation was done to turn the heat up on the Confederacy, and had a great many flaws. And was it simple Northern arrogance driving him to maintain the Union (under Northern control, of course) at such a heavy price?

I offer up three reasons why Lincoln, of all the Presidents, is held in the highest regard, and has so many marble structures bearing his name:

He Won.

Americans love a winner. We always have. Washington. Jackson. Grant. Eisenhower. Colin Powell. The 2007 New England Patriots. We love those who win, and will imbue them with talents far beyond reality. Winners can do no wrong. In the end, Lincoln won. Yes, he wasn’t a direct military commander, but it was his war, his battle. It was his dogged determination, and eventually his appointment of Grant as commander of the army, that led to victory over the Confederacy. And it was a true, military victory, not some negotiated settlement or stalemate. We salute Lincoln because he was the victor.

He Died.

It’s a horribly cynical thing to say we only admire people who are struck down early. In the case of our Presidents, it’s not always true (who knows anything about William McKinley or James Garfield these days?). But it is true enough that we put people on pedestals after they die, especially when they die before their time. Was James Dean really that good of an actor? Was Kurt Cobain more talented than Eddie Vedder? Was Abraham Lincoln really the best President ever? Or do we put a better spin on those who leave us before they really should? The story of Lincoln’s death is tragic, but it came at such a special moment – days after Lee’s surrender at Appomattox – that it will forever be held as the stuff of legend.

He Was Right.

Above all else, I feel Abraham Lincoln is worthy of mention as America’s greatest President for one simple fact: he was right. He was right to free the slaves, even though his Proclamation was half-baked. He was right that the Union should stay together, for divided the nation would have been weaker. And he was right that the Confederacy should be defeated and not bargained with. There would have been conflict on our soil between two nations (or perhaps more) for generations afterward (witness the strife that plagued Europe for hundreds of years).

Emancipation Proclamation (public domain photo courtesy of Wikipedia)But there is another meaning to the word “right”. Lincoln was also the right President at the right time. People tend to forget the mess this country was in before Lincoln. The “slave problem” was a menace, a canker, a tumor on the very heart of America. It ate at the very core of our beloved Constitution. America, a nation supposedly founded on freedom, held hundreds of thousands in thrall, was a nation of hypocrites.

This canker led to a cancerous government, for we not only had a collection of weak-willed, spineless Presidents (from Harrison to Buchanan, find me one worth a damn), we also had a divided, rudderless Congress, and a court whose decisions were at times abhorrent (the infamous Dred Scott decision). We even had riots in the states and territories (Bleeding Kansas, John Brown’s Raid). I will even suggest that slavery was harming Southern culture; it enabled a decidedly undemocratic aristocracy, more interested in pomp, grandeur, and socializing than education, social betterment, industrialization, or agricultural advancement.

The American Civil War was such a tremendous turning point for the United States. We became a much better nation after Appomattox than we ever were before Fort Sumter. The transfiguration is glaring, in fact it’s shocking. The elimination of slavery, and the resolution of the simmering North-South conflict, revitalized this nation and sent us on the path to becoming a true powerhouse, and Abraham Lincoln was there, right when he needed to be, a nexus between barbarity and enlightenment.

In the end, we are right to deify the man named Lincoln, faults and all.

Memorial (courtesy of the National Park Service)

[The photos on this entry are public domain, and come courtesy of the National Park Service and Wikipedia] 

Links:

Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historic Site

An Analysis of the Emancipation Proclamation

An Essay on Pre-Civil War Southern Stagnation

Google map to Lincoln’s Birthplace

Read Full Post »

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »