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I figured I’d break things up a little bit by posting something different, yet still relevant, every 7th post. This time, in honor of John Adams, I thought I’d post a book recommendation:

Patriots by A. J. Langguth

Way back when, I attended night school towards my Bachelor’s degree. Although it wasn’t my major, I had one very enjoyable American History class. The professor was so excited about his topic, and that translated directly to student interest, my interest. Afterwards, I decided to study up on it on my own.

At the time, it was really hard to find an enjoyable read in the genre. Most history books were either over-laden with so much sheer trivia, or were written like bad textbooks, just facts thrown on a page with little context and no interest.

Patriots is so different. It not only reads like a narrative, a story you can really sink into, it also infuses these real-life characters, these patriots, with soul. You feel the cantankerousness of James Otis, the steadfastness of John Adams, the wise logic of Ben Franklin, the practicality of George Washington. You can mentally participate in the debates these men had with each other, and even with themselves. You can actually experience the rebellion in its entirety, from the Boston Massacre to the surrender at Yorktown, and come out not only the wiser, but satisfied as a good book can only satisfy.

The good thing about a well-written book like Patriots is you can learn a lot about this country without feeling like you’ve been through the meat grinder of all-night cram sessions or final exams. This is how history should be. Nowadays, there are a lot of good books on American history that are also enjoyable to read, I’ll post more of my favorites in the weeks and months ahead. But Patriots was the first one that I read that fit that description, hence it’s the first one I post.

The Glories of Innovation

I love innovation, I really do. I guess I’m just an old techno-geek. I love stumbling across things that are so brilliant, inventions that show not only the intelligence, but the sheer drive and willpower of idea-men and those who craft those ideas into reality. One of those happy little discoveries was the Allegheny Portage Railroad.

This is one of those stories that takes a little while to tell. Way back in the early 1800’s, we really were the United States of America. We were just a collection of states assembled under one flag, instead of the Conforming States of Generica we seem to be now. The only difference between us back then and the modern day European Union is we were all illiterate under a common language. Other than that, the states were really separate entities, each culturally and economically different from the other.

Of course, every state competed with every other state. Who had the better industry? Who had the better cities? Who could attract the most immigrants (imagine that in this day and age)? Most importantly, who had the best economy? Then, as now, wealth begat power, wealth begat influence, wealth begat more wealth. Competition would be quite stiff at times, especially amongst rival Northern states.

Ohio River SteamboatIn the early 1800’s, westward expansion was really gearing up. The frontier represented opportunity. For settlers, it was the opportunity to find a new life. To the merchants in the eastern states, the frontier represented money. Settlers needed tools, and supplies, and seed. Settlers needed to sell their own products (timber, crops, cattle) to buy those tools, supplies, and seed. The merchants were ready to handle both sides of the equation. The nation, as today, ran on commerce. There were riches to be had on the frontier, that much was certain. But how do you transport all these people and goods back and forth? The answer was water.

The railroads hadn’t begun their dominance over the land yet. So America used its great waterways: the Ohio, the Mississippi, and the Great Lakes. Of course, there’s a small problem: how do you get goods from the wealthy merchant cities of Boston, Baltimore, New York, and Philadelphia, to these great waterways, and back? Well, by wagon, of course … oh wait, small problem: a little thing called the Appalachian Mountains. Sure, compared to the then-irrelevant Rocky Mountains, the Appalachians are nothing, mere bumps on the ground. But to a young nation with nothing more than mules and wooden wagons, these bumps formed a most impressive obstacle, to some states more than others.

New York managed quite well. They had a wonderful thing called the Hudson River that just so happened to run into the Mohawk River, which just so happened to run in a natural channel through the Adirondacks (thank you, Ice Age glaciers!). A little bit of digging across a reasonably forgiving stretch of land, and voila! They finished a little thing called the Erie Canal by 1825. This little gem of a project catapulted slimy little New York City into the financial powerhouse it is today.

Erie Canal courtesy of www.eriecanal.org

Maryland was soon following right along. They had a nice little waterway called the Potomac River running along their southern border. They still had to cross the mountains to match the superiority of the Erie Canal, but their canal system got them pretty durn close. It was only a matter of time before they figured out how to cross the great mountains of what is now West Virginia. Oh wait, what’s that whistling noise? Oh yes, it’s called the railroad. Still in its infancy, the engineers of that famous Monopoly space — the B&O Railroad — figured out how to keep their crude engines carrying freight to the Ohio River and beyond. They would be carrying frontier goods very soon.

But Pennsylvania, oh poor Pennsylvania! What to do? If they didn’t carve a path to the frontier, they would be ruined! New York already took over Philadelphia’s preeminence, and now Maryland? Pennsylvania had a river leading up to the mountains (the Susquehanna). They had a river leading away from them (the Ohio). But what about that spur of the Appalachians, the blasted Alleghenies! The glaciers didn’t come far enough south to scour great grooves in those escarpments. The Keystone State was, basically, screwed. So, what to do?

1846 Pennsylvania courtesy of www.mapsofpa.com

This is where the brilliance came in. What do you do with mountains? You climb them, of course (well, duh!).

The Allegheny Portage Railroad was the resultant masterpiece. It was a series of inclined railways, powered by fixed engines at various locations. You throw a freight car on it, hoist it up one side and down the other, simple! They even invented canal boats on wheels: you paddle up, hook up one end, and tow it up and down to the next river! Fixed engines made it simple and manageable, and less problematic, than the early railroad engines. The whole thing was brilliant and ingenious, and saved Pennsylvania from ruin.

Well, not really. It ran poorly. It broke a lot, there were a lot of devastating accidents. Have you ever seen a heavily-laden cable snap? It’s called “mass beheading”. Yeah, it wasn’t the best operating system in the world, but it did what it needed to do for 20 years, when the steam engine really came into its prime and men figured out how to lay good track and blast holes through mountains.

Even though, I really love the notion of the Allegheny Portage Railroad. Image floating along on a fine autumn afternoon, watching fisherman, and farmers, and children playing tag. Hawks circling above, looking for some stray rabbit for dinner. Your passenger barge pulls up to the Allegheny Portage Railroad, and you’re hoisted up the mountains. The crisp, cool air refreshes your lungs, the foliage-laden Alleghenies are a perfect backdrop for a perfect day.  You toast your crossing with fellow passengers, and are lowered down to the other river, where your future awaits on the Great Frontier!

All great fun, until someone gets beheaded.

Pulleys & Twine — © 2008 America In Context

To my knowledge, no one was actually beheaded by a cable during the operation of the railroad. A steam boiler did explode on Incline Plane #6, killing four people, and there were plenty of other injuries. But nothing livens up a story like a good beheading, don’t you think?

[Original photos © 2008 America In Context. Historical maps found through http://www.maphistory.info/]

Sadly, due to poor CD management, many of my Allegheny photos are gone. The few I have, such as they are, are here.

Links:

Allegheny Portage Railroad National Historic Site

Historical Maps of Pennsylvania

Google map to Allegheny Portage Railroad

Small and Forgotten

Some National Park System sites are huge (Wrangell-St. Elias in Alaska is over 13 million acres – twice as big as my home state of Massachusetts). Some are tiny, such as the African-American Civil War Memorial, nestled in a small plot at the intersection of Vermont, 10th, & U St. in Washington, D.C. All NPS sites can tell you a lot, however, if you only chose to listen.

African-American Civil War Memorial — © 2008 America In ContextI wanted to post an essay about the courage of black soldiers during the Civil War; about their bravery, their sacrifice, and the difficulties they faced. There is so much to tell, so much the average American doesn’t know. But I find myself distracted with more immediate concerns.

In preparation for this post, I wanted to read up on the history of the memorial. So I visited the National Park Service’s site, www.nps.gov. And wouldn’t you know it, they have basically no valuable information about this memorial whatsoever!

This really troubles me. I know the AACWM is not tops on visitors’ “must see” list. There’s no way it can compete with the Washington Monument, the Jefferson Memorial, or the Smithsonian. But the role of the National Park Service is not one of tour guide, they are both a protector and a promoter of America’s natural, historical, and cultural treasures. Regardless of how small it is, the AACWM is one of those treasures, a monument to those who risked it all to free their own kinsmen from bondage. Their story is as important as the story of George Mason, whose own little monument has its own page on the NPS site.

The Park Service does a grave injustice by excluding this memorial. One cannot understand America without understanding black America. The history of black America is our history, it’s American history.  It’s not just some esoteric subject studied by 15% of the nation. And it really bothers me that the African-American Civil War Memorial gets such short-shrift from the National Park Service.

I urge visitors to Washington to take a half-hour out of their schedule and take the Green Line to U Street. It’s only a block east from there. Take a little more time and visit the nearby museum as well. Yes, it’s not the best area of the city, but that’s part of the American experience, too.

Faces — © 2008 America In Context

[All photos on this entry are originals by the blog owner.]

Links:

Sadly, there is no link to the National Park Service for this memorial.

African American Civil War Memorial Freedom Foundation and Museum

Google map to the AACWM

Peace and Unquiet

I find something magical in the Great Plains. I know, it’s just this big expanse of nuttin’, but I love the big, wide-open spaces. To stand in a spot where you can’t see anything, for miles and miles, feels so mentally and spiritually cleansing. It’s all about space, just experiencing the vastness of all dimensions, it’s … captivating.

View from Agate — © America In Context 2007

My very first experience with the Plains was not so captivating. I was returning from a business trip to San Jose, California. Shortly after the plane passed the Rocky Mountains, we hit a patch of turbulence. Patch? Patch nothing … the plane shook for nearly an hour! I really hate flying, I mean really hate it. We’re talking sheer, white-knuckled terror, and that’s on a good flight! This tumultuous one, well, either the plane was going to crash, or I was going to shake myself apart from the tension. Looking out the window, wide-eyed with fear, I could see the vast, unpopulated plains of Nebraska looming below me. “Anywhere but there”, I said to myself. “I don’t want to die in the middle of Nebraska!”

The pilot then comes on, and blurts out “well, we’re going to try to go up 5,000 more feet, see if it quiets down.” A twitch of the flaps and there we were, smooth as glass. I wanted to go up front and bitch-slap that bastard for waiting so long, but I couldn’t pry my fingers out of the armrests.

Being on the ground in Nebraska is so much better than flying over it.

Back On Topic

Funky Diorama — © America In Context 2007Agate Fossil Beds itself is nothing special. It’s just a couple of knolls in the prairie. But it does tell a fascinating paleontologic story. See, a couple of million years ago, there was this watering hole. Big herbivores loved this watering hole. Then, one day, it dried up. The herbivores started to starve. Then the predators came and ate them all up, but they too started to starve, for there were no more herbivores. Then the scavengers showed up and ate all the dead predators, but then they, too died, for there was nothing left to scavenge. All of them died in this big heap. A few million years later, paleontologists showed up, and wondered just what the hell happened! Was this some cultic suicide, did these Miocene animals drink some prehistoric Kool-Aid at the bidding of a dinosaur with a bad haircut wearing Ray-Bans? Or was it something more natural? It’s a neat story to those so inclined.

Agate does another wonderful thing: it helps preserve Native American culture. Here’s another case of individual bravery in the face of government brutality: a man by the name of James Cook owned a ranch near the fossil beds during the heyday of their excavation. He managed to befriend Red Cloud, chief of the Oglala Sioux. He often gave Red Cloud’s people aid and comfort during the painful years of reservation life. Red Cloud honored Cook through gifts of many Sioux-crafted items, all now displayed at Agate Fossil Beds. It’s a small, but quite impressive, collection. They also support Native artisans, and have regular showings of their current works.

It’s quite off the beaten path, but take a few hours to drive there. Lose yourself in the wide expanse that is the Great Plains (I recommend getting out of the car first, though. No zoning out behind the wheel, please).

Hide Painting — © America In Context 2007

[All pictures on this entry are originals by the blog owner.]

See all original photos of Agate Fossil Beds

Links:

Agate Fossil Beds National Monument

Google map to Agate Fossil Beds

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Just for the heck of it, here’s a picture of a bunny:

Agate Bunny — © America In Context 2007